I had the pleasure to guide the Irish Tree Society for two days in the Serranía de Ronda botanical sector. The group followed a superb program exploring iconic Andalusian forests in the Betic mountain range and historical ornemental parks that are rich in trees growing in the coastal blessed climate. After heavy rains in Andalusia, the field was glorious with road verges filled with red, blue, yellow and white flowers… poppies (Papaver rhoeas), purple viper’s-bugloss (Echium plantagineum), corn marigold (Glebionis segetum, syn. Chrysanthemum segetum), Crambe filiformis and a many others.
The Irish tree Society discovering Western Andalusia with G3-guides.
An introduction to Andalusian ecosystems: Mediterranean Forests.
DAY ONE
Conifers at Grazalema & the Genal’s groves
We dedicate the morning to discover a representation of Andalusian conifers (Gymnosperma: Pinaceae). We could easily observe from the car park three pine species that are widely distributed in the Mediterranean region but mostly widespread and common in Spain. There, native pines all have their leaves (“needles”) produced in pairs.
Aleppo pine. Pinus halepensis Mill., 1768. Loose silhouette with medium size needles. Grey and finely fissured bark. Medium size cone riged out with a strong stalk. As a result, the tree keeps numerous cones for a long time in the crown. Thermophilic and drought resistant, used for reforesting arid areas.
Looking at Maritime, Stone and Aleppo Pines cones (from left to right).
Maritime pine. Pinus pinaster Aiton. Very dense silhouette with long needles, vivid green. Very coarse bark. Very long cone with, in Andalusian populations, downard pointy scales. The best tree for harvesting pine resin.
Stone/Umbrella pine. Pinus pinea L. Typical round silhouette. Large and bulky ovoid cones, the cone’s scales with two deep holes that provided space for kernels. Edible seeds (pine nuts).
Some of us had the chance to see at short distance crossbills (Loxia curvirostra) frantikly feeding on their seeds.
Pinus pinaster. In: Lambert. A description of the genus Pinus. Link.
We then climb the Sierra del Pinar trail and the 250 m altitude difference was not a problem for most of our intrepid Irish senior botanists. We cross the dense maritime pine forest and could observe some typical Mediterranean plants, such as the Helm oak (Quercus ilex rotundifolia), the Spanish thisthle (Ptilostemon hispanicus), a betic endemism, or the Phoenician juniper (Juniperus phoenicea). Very common forest understory shrubs: pink rock roses (Cistus albidus) and Moors’s Jerusalem sage (Phlomis purpurea), Betic gorse (Ulex baeticus). From the ridge, we could at last discover the purpose of this expedition which was no other than see-sighting the rare and iconic Spanish firs (Abies pinsapo).
The views from the ridge, with Spanish firs (Abies pinsapo) on the left
We are only left with three forests of pinsapos in total -worldwide-, so the magnificient views were a bit emotional. The firs grow in northern slope and can be recognized by their needles covering the twigs in circular fashion, unlike Silver fir (Abies alba). At this time of the year, we did not see any cones… but could distinguish from the distance dead trees, probably the result of recent severe droughts provoked by climate change.
Spanish fir (Abies pinsapo).
After a lunch and a well deserved rest at the Paisaje Restaurant (Atajate), we start to explore the beautifull Genal Valley with its mixture of Sweet chesnut (Castanea sativa), almond trees (Prunus dulcis), Olive trees (Olea europaea) and Cherry trees (Prunus avium) orchads which are mixed with oak woodlands with Portuguese oaks (Quercus faginea) and Helm oaks. The hike was very pleasant thanks to its gentle slope. The Mediterranean shrubs were very rich in species: Rhamnus alaternus, Arbutus unedo, Calicotome villosa, Cytisus grandiflora, Cytisus vilosus, small Ulmus minor, Cistus salvifolius, Cistus ladanifer and Cistus monspeliensis… and some more. Various lianas were also observed. A few bee orchids (Ophyrys lutea, Ophrys tenthredinifera) and flower such as Pink valerian (Centranthus calcitrapae) put some colour in those 50 shades of green.
We finish at the white village of Benaladid smelling of azahar essence (Citrus species). Such a delight!
Sevilla orange (Citrus x auriantium) flower that we call azahar in Spanish.
DAY TWO
Botanical garden and Los ALcornocales
This second day highlights the differences and contrast between the flora of calcium-rich limestone (Grazalema) and acidic sandstone (Alcornocales).
Puerto del Boyar.
We first stop at Mirador del Boyar to observe the karstic model of the Sierra de Grazalema and the south facing slope of Sierra del Pinar, where no Pinsapos are to be found. A few Atlantic cedars (Cedrus atlantica) reminds us that the sierra was heavily reforested during the XX century. In the distance, mountains give way to an enormous and flat area, the Campiña de Jerez and far away in Doñana.
El Castillejo Botanical Garden.
We then reach El Bosque and visit the Botanical Garden of El Castillejo, a medium size and modern park densely vegetated with local Mediterranean flora. It is a delight to check all the species we have already observed in the wild and the ones which remain to be discovered by the group. The plants are nicely labeled and the rather short promenade allow for perfect educational purposes. It is nice to walk through a small Spanish fir woodland. Fianly, we were happy to see school students much focused on their botanical drawings.
Looking oaks’ leaves with the microscopes at the restaurant.
We then explore Los Alcornocales Natural Park with its giant forest of Cork oaks (Quercus suber) mixed with Andalusian oaks (Q. canariensis). That species and Q. faginea are often difficult to separate… but the young leaves of canariensis have flocose indumentation that soon fall, a criteria visible in the field. Sand stones are also sedimentary rocks but of a totaly diferent nature and pH… and the perfect substrate for calcium-intolerant organisms such as alcornoque trees. At La Sauceda, we find one of the nicest path with public right of way. The music of the stream, the shade of oaks, flowers such as Blue lupin (Lupinus angustifolius) or Giant squill (Scilla peruviana) and the gentle temperatures make the whole experience very pleasant.
Walking at La Sauceda among cork and Portuguese oaks.
It is then time to say good bye and wish a nice journey to all. I hope you enjoy the trip.
Giant squill (Scilla peruviana).
A special thanks to Harriet Landseer and Anne Alice Cases.
Recent Comments